April 30, 2007
Filed under: Gardening — admin @ 9:09 am
If you are a gardener who doesn’t want your level of success to be determined by the weather, setting up greenhouses may be your solution. Not only will your crops not be subject to damage from the weather, you can actually control the climate in a greenhouse.
Having the ability to manage the environment in your garden can make it possible for you to cultivate plants that don’t normally grow in your climate. By controlling the conditions, you can even produce out of season. This is really an avid gardener’s fantasy. Greenhouses unlock the barriers to gardening by making it viable to grow anything, anytime, no matter where you live.
There are several things that you need to know when planning on setting up greenhouses. Taking care to plan will increase your potential while saving you money. It requires a little research, lots of thought and that loathed process of budgeting, but all in all, it is lots of fun, especially when the planning is done and you can make your ambition of being a phenomenal gardener a reality.
There are five things to be considered in the planning process:
• Different types of greenhouses
• Greenhouse accessories
• Needs assessment
• Location
• Budget
After building the knowledge, determining your needs, selecting a location, and setting your budget, you will be ready to devise a plan and put it into action!
Types of greenhouses
Building your knowledge concerning the different types of greenhouses will make the process so much easier. There are various different types including different sizes, shapes and building materials. Whether you are planning for a huge garden, a small garden, or an herb box, there are greenhouses available for you. Hobby gardening to commercial gardening can be accommodated.
Greenhouses are available in several sizes. They range from a window box to a full-size building. You can select an attached greenhouse (attached to your house or another building), or a free-standing greenhouse. There are even portable greenhouses, or hobby greenhouses, that can easily fit on your porch.
A lean-to shape is common with attached greenhouses, although an even-span can be attached too. A window-mounted greenhouse is a small, attached greenhouse. Free-standing greenhouses can take any shape and size.
What is more to important to some than shape or size is the building materials used in the construction of a greenhouse. The materials used will determine the cost, the durability and the level of maintenance that will be required to keep the greenhouse in good shape. Some materials will require a permanent foundation; while some that are intended to be portable, won’t require a permanent foundation.
The frame of a free-standing greenhouse can be made of wood or pipe with choices of different grades of wood, plastic, aluminum, or galvanized steel pipe. The type of framing material may be dependent on your choice of coverings. For coverings you may choose tempered glass, fiberglass or plastic film. In selecting the materials, you should consider the pros and cons of each as well as the cost, maintenance requirement and durability.
If you are building the greenhouse yourself, you should check with your local building inspector to find out about recommendations for materials in your area and whether or not a building permit is required.
Greenhouse accessories
It is best to become familiar with greenhouse accessories before you select your greenhouses or develop your budget. In order for your greenhouse to work, there are some accessories that you will definitely need. Other accessories are for convenience.
One of the most important accessories to consider is watering devices, because plumbing may be required. Plumbing can really cut into your budget. So, it is a good idea to check out the options for watering your plants inside your greenhouse. Of course, you can carry water and hand-water your plants if you have the time, but there are watering devices that will automatically water as instructed.
The next most significant knowledge to build is about climate and light control equipment. This includes equipment that will help you to control the environment in your greenhouse. Temperature control equipment such as heating systems and solar panels will allow you to control the heat, while evaporative coolers, humidification devices and shade cloths can help to cool and humidify the area. Ventilation and air circulation equipment may be necessary too. Artificial lighting can be used to compensate for sunlight if the greenhouse doesn’t get enough sunlight.
Control equipment really adds potential to your greenhouse. It can actually create an environment that best suits your garden, regardless of your climate or the weather. Control equipment can be automated, where it takes care of itself, or it can be manually implemented as needed.
Of course you will need planters, pots or containers, unless you plant right in the ground. Plant stands and shelves will allow you to plant more in less space. You will also have to have the basic gardening supplies including hand tools.
These are a few of the necessary greenhouse accessories. In your research, you will become familiar with lots of accessories that make gardening in a greenhouse a whole lot simpler and more enjoyable.
Assessing your needs
It is very important that you assess your needs. Otherwise, you will likely end up getting something that doesn’t meet your needs. When that happens, you will end up spending loads of money to revamp your plan after you find out that greenhouses you have selected aren’t sufficient.
After you have done all of the research on types of greenhouses and greenhouse accessories, you will know what is available. You will probably know what you want, but you need to make sure that it will meet your needs.
Now is the time to decide if you want a large greenhouse, or maybe more than one small greenhouse. It all depends on what you are planting and the best environment for the plants. For example, if you are planting plants that grow best in dry environment along with plants that require humidity, it will be best to have two greenhouses so that you have the ability to control environment appropriately.
Decide what you are going to plant and do the research to determine the best growing conditions for the plants. This will help to establish what you need in terms of greenhouses and accessories for controlling the environment.
Selecting a location
Location of the greenhouse will dictate what gardening accessories are needed in regard to lighting control. Some plants don’t require a lot of light, while some require sunlight for the whole day. Positioning your greenhouse will determine whether or not you need artificial lighting. Choose a location where the greenhouse gets sunlight all day if you can. If you can’t, be sure to plan for artificial lighting to compensate for shady hours in the day.
Budgeting
Budgeting is usually the first thing you do when planning a project. You probably had some idea of how much money you could spend on your greenhouse project, but after doing all the research, you are likely to find that you need more money to get exactly what you want.
Now is the time to separate your wants from your needs. This may include formulating two budgets, one for now and one for later. For now, take your current budget and plan to purchase the things that you need to get your greenhouse going. Your budget may decide whether you will buy prefabricated greenhouses, have your greenhouses built, or built them yourself. It may decide what accessories you can get now, and what conveniences you will have to put off until later. Later, you can always add-on or buy additional accessories to enhance your gardening experience.
Be sure to put your greenhouse plans in writing including drawings of what your long-term plan includes. This will help you or your contractor to remember what you are shooting for throughout the project. With good written plans, you won’t accidentally place things where they will have to moved or torn down to expand your greenhouse. Of course, things can be moved, but moving them can be expensive and can jeopardize the strength and durability of the materials.
Planning before you start to build greenhouses is vital. It can save you lots of money and make budgeting so much easier. It can actually set long-term plans to create the perfect gardening atmosphere, one that you will be proud of and enjoy working in.
Every gardener has a dream. Make the vision a goal, and you’ll definitely realize it. Making the gardener’s dream come true is promising with a little research, a lot of planning, patience, and hard work. It may not be something that you can have tomorrow, but you can start small and build-up over time until you have the garden that you never imagined possible.
If you have done a good job of planning, the future won’t include wasting your money by tearing down your insufficient greenhouse. Your greenhouse will be an investment in your long-term gardening plans.
David Beart is the owner of http://www.professorshouse.com. Our site covers such topics as gardening, flowers, teenagers, family, cooking and other household issues.
Article Source: http://www.articlerich.com
April 26, 2007
Filed under: Trees — admin @ 4:50 pm
Keeping a healthy, clean garden takes time and effort. Pruning, weeding and pest control are three of the more fundamental tasks involved in cleaning your garden. Read on for a few tips to help you clean your garden.
There are two main reasons that pruning the roots of your trees and shrubs is important. The first reason is to prepare a tree or shrub for transplanting to a different location. For a smaller size plant, cut down straight all around the bush about sixteen to eighteen inches from the main stalk. You will want to cut down farther if it is a larger plant. You then leave the plant to grow new roots, but be sure to water the plant well for at least a month and fertilize as needed. You should prune the tree or shrub at least six weeks before moving it. A second reason pruning is important is to cure what is referred to as girdling.
Girdling is when one of the larger underground roots, or sometimes a surface root, is turning onto the other roots and not spreading out or implanting itself into the soil as it should. Sometimes, you can actually see the root circling where it should not be but, other times, you can only see that the trunk goes straight down in certain sections rather than slanting in spots where there are roots. A straight trunk is a good sign that girdling is taking place.
Be sure to remove all of the girdling roots to prevent these roots from strangling the tree and damaging its growth, eventually to the point of dieing.
Many gardeners prefer mulching over weeding, but there are times when weeding is necessary. When the plants are small, you need to pull out the weeds that could grow in and “choke†the flowers. Weeding is often an important step before you can even begin to mulch. Many weeds are, actually, beneficial either from their root exudates or sometimes for food.
Deep-rooted weeds can bring good supplies of nitrogen up into the to the topsoil and the plants’ stems. During tilling, the weeds will supply the soil with healthy nutrients and such which will help young plants grow.Â
Pest control is no fun in gardening, but fortunately you do not have to do a lot of work aside from the normal garden practices which tend to keep pests to a minimum. You should give plants a lot of room and air, ensure that they are not too damp unless required by the plant type and also plant them in sun or in shade, depending on what their needs require.
Also, be sure to select disease-resistant varieties of plants and their companion plants. It is important to create a harmonious environment of living creatures, for example, bees on flowers and birds which are known for consuming insects.
Greg Hansward is writing for the most part for http://www.insidewoodworking.com , an internet site with topics around different wood types . His publications on wood splitters are published on his website .
Article Source: http://www.articlerich.com
April 25, 2007
Filed under: Plants — admin @ 12:44 pm
When starting a garden you have two choices when it comes to the garden plants and flowers you grow, you can raise them from seed or you can purchase your vegetables. Your gardening success will depend on the quality of these small starter plants.
Knowing the difference between good plants and bad plants will go a long ways toward you having a bountiful harvest in the fall.
You need to choose the place you buy your garden plants and flowers carefully. Looks are important and healthy plants will usually appear green and strong. They need to be a good size, not too big and not too small. This article will look at a few essential things you need to know to pick out strong vigorous plants for your garden.
The place you decide to purchase your plants has everything to do with their success rate. It is your money you are spending so pick carefully the place you decide to buy your plants. You can go to a home improvement superstore or local hardware store to purchase your vegetables.
Many people like to get in the car and drive outside the city a little ways and find a farmer or roadside stand that sells starter vegetables. It may be wise to watch how the employees take care of things. You can often learn a lot by standing back and simply watching what is going on. Wherever you decide to buy from make sure they look good.
For a garden that will thrive all summer long you need to pick out strong, healthy plants. Take a look at their overall appearance. Does the plant look healthy? Does the color appear to be normal?
You want to pick something out that will survive. Make sure it is a healthy green before you load it into the car. Make sure your find is the right size to take home with you.
You want your future harvest to be just the right size. If it is too small it may take a long time to catch up and delay your harvest. plants that are huge may have been hanging around the nursery too long. I like to pick out a nice medium size.
This size plant seems to give a very good success rate. Look for any abnormalities or defects that may affect the way your plant will grow.
When you purchase your garden plants and flowers somewhere, you need to remember their care up to that point has been in another person’s hands. They may not have the love for green things that you have. A rough start can often be overcome with a little tender loving care. Treat your garden well and it will reward you many times over all year long.
About The Author:- Douglas Taylor
For more gardening tips for beginners try visiting http://www.onegardens.com/ where you will find tips, advice and resources about topics such as how to grow an organic garden.
Article Source http://www.articlerich.com
April 24, 2007
Filed under: Gardening — admin @ 5:34 pm
Carrots grow well in well drained, sandy soil. Make sure the soil is nice and loose down to 12 inches or more to allow for good root development. Make sure your soil doesn’t have any rocks and twigs.
Carrots don’t require much space. It all depends on how big the roots are at harvest time. If you’re growing baby carrots, spacing them between 3/4 of an inch and 2 inches. If you want bigger carrots, thinning to a final spacing of 2 inches-4 inches is about right.
Carrots need a good moisture supply to become well established and to produce good root development. Carrots need at least 1 inch of water each week during the growing season. Remember to soak the soil thoroughly when watering.
Carrots are very easy to harvest. Simply pull up the plant by the tops (the green leafy part). You can basically harvest them any time, depending on the size you want. For baby carrots, harvest them at 4 to 5 inches. For bigger carrots, harvest them at 3/4 to 1 1/2 inches.
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Peas
Peas need nutrient rich soil produce a good crop. Peas planted in early spring do well in raised beds that have good drainage. They can be started as soon as the soil can be worked.
Peas need to be planted 1 to 1 1/2 inches apart in all directions. The rows should be 12 to 18 inches apart. If you are planting a large bed of peas, you can plant them in a zig-zag pattern with 12 to 18 inches between the plants.
Peas need lots of even moisture throughout the growing season. They like soil with good drainage and if they stay too wet, they will get root rot.
You know your peas are ready to harvest when their pods are plump but not bursting. Harvest them every 2-4 days to encourage them to keep growing.
Green Beans
Green beans are easy to grow, and will thrive in almost any soil. They need to have good drainage though, or the seeds will rot. To prepare the soil, break up large clods of dirt and rake the area smooth.
Plant your beans 1 to 1 1/2 inches deep, and 2 inches apart within rows. Space the rows about 24 to 36 inches. If you want lots of beans, plant beans every two weeks, until a good month and a half before first expected frost date.
Peas need lots of moisture during germination. Water them deeply once a week, making sure the soil drains well. Once your peas have started to sprout, you don’t need to irrigate them as much.
Fresh beans are usually ready for harvest about 8 to 10 days after flowering. They will be pencil thin, and the beans will be bright green. The bean pods will snap easily when bent. Pinch or cut the beans off rather than pulling them.
Potatoes
Potatoes need well-drained soil. It’s a good idea to mix compost into your bed to make sure there are plenty of nutrients in the soil.
Plant your potato seeds in early spring, about 3 weeks before the last frost. Space your potatoes between 6 and 12 inches apart, in shallow holes (about 3 inches deep). Make the rows between 30 and 36 inches.
Keep your potatoes evenly moist and water them deeply during dry spells. If you plant your potatoes in a hill, they will dry out quicker so watch the soil moisture carefully.
You’ll know your potatoes are ready to harvest when their leaves die back. Some people prefer ‘new potatoes.’ These are immature potatoes that are picked several months after planting, but before the potato plants reach maturity. You can find these new potatoes when the potato plants blossom.
For more gardening tips visit the authors site at: Plant Propagation or if you are looking for landscaping advice visit Landscaping Services
For more gardening tips visit the authors site at: Article Source: http://www.articlerich.com
April 22, 2007
Filed under: Trees — admin @ 12:46 pm
There are several reasons for why you should prune the roots off of a shrub or tree on your property. If you do this it will help to prepare a tree or shrub for the shock of being transplanted. Allow your plant to form new roots which will make it hardier. You should water your plant for a whole month and also fertilize it too.
Do all of this at least six weeks before you move it. You might also want to give the plant even more time like up to a year after you do this root pruning.
Weeding is a task that most people don’t like to do in their garden. Many people would prefer to mulch when gardening instead of weeding, but you should consider weeding. Many weeds are good for your garden, you need to be careful what you weed. When you till weeds than can give your ground the kind of nutrients the need to grow. This is especially true if you are dealing with younger plants who need more nutrient to grow.
If you want to make your garden very clean cut and geometric then you may have the tendency to get rid of all the weeds. This is not the best plan of action, it is better to get rid of the weeds that won’t help your garden and keep those that are beneficial.
If you have garden insects then you should just follow standard practices to keep pests down. You don’t need to overwork yourself with trying to get rid of pests. You can give your plant a lot of air and make sure they are not too wet, unless they are bog or water plants.
Plant your plants in the sun or in the shade according to their needs and give them all the nutrients they need.
Use plant varieties that are disease-resistant and also use companion plants. It is important to create an environment that promotes harmony. Use bees near flowers, birds nearby because these all eat insects and will protect your plants. There can also be certain bacteria that is good for your plants and molds and fungi as well.
They can provide important protection to your plants. Ladybugs, wasps, and lacewings are the kinds of bugs that can eat bad pests and protect your plant.
You can also attract birds to your garden by planting berried shrubs or installing bird houses in your yard. You can buy lady bugs for your garden and you can even purchase wasps, and praying mantises that are in eggs. You can also get some sprays to protect your plants and they will repel pests. You can also try using a mechanical device like a trap that using molasses or bran baits.
Use tanglefoot at the base of a tree to trap bugs. You can also try to use black lights to repel bugs in the evening.
Focusing on the topic of wood processors, Kurt Schefken is writing mostly for http://www.insidewoodworking.com . His work on wood splitters are published on http://www.insidewoodworking.com/lws/wood-splitters.html .
Article Source: http://www.articlerich.com
April 20, 2007
Filed under: Gardening — admin @ 5:54 pm
Perhaps nothing says “garden party” like having afternoon tea outdoors. It’s a charming reminder of bygone days and childhood make-believe. Outdoor spaces of all kinds, including balconies, can be successfully adapted to a tea party.
Tea parties span generations and will be enjoyed by your most sophisticated women friends or all the giggling little girls of your acquaintance.
What makes an elegant tea party? Look at these factors.
flowers
Plan to hold your tea party when your garden is in its fullest bloom — perhaps it’s lilac time, June roses, or peony season. Be sure to cut some of the blooms for the tea table vases. If you don’t have a garden, buy an armful of flowers at a farmers’ market or stop by a country ditch and pick bunches of wild daisies and Queen Anne’s lace.
Invitations
Send handwritten notes by snail mail. Your guests will recognize your party as an elegant affair and dress accordingly! Typically, tea is held around 4 p.m. — perfect for day-blooming flowers. Include an invitation for the little ones to bring along a doll or teddy friend.
Table Setting
The more elegant, the better. Stash the paper table covering and the plastic glasses just for today. Instead, use a crisp linen tablecloth, pressed cloth napkins and your best bone china cups and saucers. If it’s a little girls’ party, you might want to invest in two or three miniature tea sets.
Try to have adequate seating for everyone. Consider setting your straight-back indoor dining chairs outdoors. They can add an elegant touch, whether left unadorned or covered with flowered chintz.
Hats
Encourage all of your guests to wear hats — big-brimmed, floppy and flowered. If the party is for little girls, collect old hats, scarves and silk flowers at a thrift shop, yard sale or discount store. Make decorating the hats a fun activity at the party. You can also include a box of flowery cast-offs for dressing up. Include “grown-up” shoes and old jewellery — anything that will make the little ones feel elegant. Tea time is a fun way to introduce young ones to “elegant party” manners.
Food
Other than teaspoons, no cutlery should be required at tea. All sandwiches and sweets should be dainty finger-food. Try sandwiches of watercress, cucumber, or egg with the crusts removed and cut in quarters. Sugar cookies and petit fours are traditional sweets. You can substitute mini-cupcakes or tiny tarts.
Tea
One of the first things that I learned in seventh grade home economics class was how to brew a proper pot of hot tea, but that was many years ago. I suspect that tea-making is becoming a lost art.
Tea is actually the common name of one plant: Camillia sinesis. The three basic types of tea — black, green and oolong — are distinguished by the amount of oxidization that the tea leaves have undergone. The more than 3,000 varieties of tea in the world are all derived from those three basic types.
Herbal teas — more properly, tisane or infusion — are made from a wide variety of flowers, herbs, barks, berries, fruits and spices.
At a minimum, offer your guests a traditional tea and a caffeine-free herbal choice. Have milk (not cream!), sugar and fresh lemon wedges available.
So, dust off your teacups and your manners and sit down with your girlfriends for a proper tea party. It’s a lovely summer interlude!
About The Author Debbie Rodgers, the haven maven, owns and operates Paradise Porch, and is dedicated to helping people create outdoor living spaces that nurture and enrich them. Her latest how-to guide “Attracting Butterflies to Your Home and Garden†is now available on her web site.
Visit her at www.paradiseporch.com and get a free report on “Eight easy ways to create privacy in your outdoor spaceâ€. Mail to debbie@paradiseporch.com .                     Â
April 12, 2007
Filed under: Flowers,Plants — admin @ 5:05 pm
Every year you plan that THIS will be the year you have pots and pots of lush plants on your balcony or deck. Then you visit your local nursery in the spring and reality hits -– the cost for your fantasy is just outrageous! Sound familiar?
But you can have the planters of your dreams at a fraction of the cost and with a choice of varieties far beyond what the local garden center offers. How! Start your own flower seeds now.
If you’ve never grown from seeds indoors before, it’s best to begin with just a few types. Easy starters: Trailing lobelia and petunias make a bright and simple garden for sunny spots. Licorice plant and dwarf nasturtiums are also attractive.
Once you’ve decided on your plants, you must know two things to determine when the seeds should be started: the last frost date for your area, and the time required before transplanting.
The last frost date is the date beyond which there is a low chance (usually about 10%) of temperatures at or below the freezing mark. This is important because many traditional plants for hanging baskets are tender, that is, they will not survive when frozen. You may already know what the frost date is for your area. If not ask gardening neighbors or your local gardening center. If you are in the USA, visit http://www.ncdc.noaa.gov/oa/documentlibrary/freezefrost/Spring32F_hires.jpg for information from the national Climatic Data Center.
The time required before transplanting is different for each type of flower. You’ll see this listed in seed catalogs or on the seed packet. For example, a packet might tell you to “start indoors 6-8 weeks before last frost date.†Some seeds such as nasturtiums, zinnias, or cosmos may be sown directly outside but if you have to wait after the danger of a frost has passed, you may want to get a jump on spring by starting those inside too.
Licorice plants and geraniums need 12 weeks to sprout from seed. So if my last frost date is May 15th, I’ll want to start them around the last week of February. Petunias, impatiens and lobelia require 10-12 weeks, so I would start them around the first of March. Morning glories, which make a beautiful privacy fence from a plain piece of latticework, need six weeks from start to transplant, but can’t be put outside until two weeks after the last frost date.
This would mean starting them indoors about mid-April. I’d start nasturtiums and zinnias about then too.
Your goal is to promote germination (with heat and water) and seedling growth (with light) while preventing your seedlings’ chief enemy, “damping-off†(with air circulation and proper drainage). Here are some tips for successful seed growing.
Use plastic containers, about 2†deep, fairly wide and with multiple drainage holes. Growers’ cell packs are ideal but you can also use yogurt or cottage cheese containers as long as you sanitize them with a mild bleach solution (one part bleach to nine parts water) for 15 minutes and then punch several holes in the bottoms.
Use commercial seed-starting mix. It’s sterilized and contains the necessary food to aid germination. You might also want to try using a product specially formulated to prevent damping-off.
Plant seeds sparingly. You’ll have to thin them anyway. Some growers plant only two seeds per cell pot. If you’re planting in flat trays, place seeds 1/2†to 1†(1 to 2.5 cm) apart, depending on the seed size, and space the rows 1 1/2†to 2†(3-5 cm) apart.
Make a depression in the soil with your finger or a pencil and plant the seed about three times as deep as its diameter. If the packet says the seed requires light to germinate, then put it just on the surface of the soil.
Set the containers in a water-filled tray. This allows the pots to draw water from the bottom without disturbing the seeds. Cover tray and pots with plastic to help hold moisture and heat.
Place the entire set-up on a heat source between 75 – 85° F (24 – 29° C). Although a heat mat designed for this purpose is ideal, you can also use the top of a fridge, or a spot near a radiator or space heater.
Once the seeds have germinated, remove the plastic and put the pots (with the water tray) near a light source at a reduced temperature. Good light is crucial at this point to ensure good growth. Fluorescent shop lights within a few inches of the tops of the seedlings are perfectly suited.
You can also try a sunny south window but ideally the light should be on the plants for 16 hours out of each 24-hour period. In my climate, we just don’t have 16 hours of daylight this time of year! Seedlings respond best to daytime temperatures of 60 – 70° F (16 – 21°C) and night temperatures of 50 – 60° F (10 – 16°C).
Here’s where it becomes critical to prevent damping-off. One way to do this is to let an electric fan blow gently across the surface of the soil during daylight hours. There are also specially formulated products on the market that can be applied to the surface of the soil when you are planting seeds that will help stop damping-off from developing.
When the seedlings have developed their first set of true leaves (not the round little germination leaves), pull all but one plant per cell. It’s hard, I know, to pull up living plants but it’s necessary to prevent overcrowding that will kill all of them.
When the seedlings have developed their second set of true leaves, start watering them (from the bottom) with fertilizer diluted to quarter strength.
A week or 10 days before you plan to plant them outside, start “hardening off†the tender seedlings. Stop fertilizing, and cut the amount of water in half. If possible, keep them in a cooler space inside and start introducing them to the direct sun and fluctuating temperatures of the outdoors.
Begin by setting the trays outside for an hour in the mid-morning or mid-afternoon ad gradually lengthen the time to several hours. Don’t put them out in heavy rain or cold, strong wind and be sure to bring them indoors at night.
Follow these steps and you will have a bounty of young, strong plants to fill your hanging baskets and pots. This year, you’ll have the planters of your dreams!
About The AuthorÂ
Debbie Rodgers owns and operates Paradise Porch, and is dedicated to helping people create outdoor living spaces that nurture and enrich them. Visit her on the web at www.paradiseporch.com and get a free report on “Eight easy ways to create privacy in your outdoor spaceâ€. Mail to debbie@paradiseporch.com                      Â
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